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    Woo hoo progress! I’m not sure if this is the best topic to post but I’ve been working on this bluetooth button idea for mobile and computer use. I finally managed to put together the Itsy Bitsy with a lipo backpack/ battery, switch, and on/of toggle. And it works (after many soldering and desoldering follies)!

    I believe the whole thing is about $20 in parts, no custom PCB board, and from there it’s easy to add another few switches for just a few bucks. Something to compete with Ablenet’s $200 [Blue2 switch](https://www.ablenetinc.com/blue2-bluetooth-switch).

    Here is the set up I have so far:
    ![BLE Button|666×500, 50%](upload://bYjpwLXEhdy0zf0D9oqpLIAFTcE.jpeg)

    I’m going to try my hand at designing a case to fit this all in but I’m even more of a novice at Fusion360. Any ideas on how best to proceed? @emaker has been kind enough to try her hand at this using the MMC60 files.


    Any ideas on how best to proceed?

    You can try using **FreeCAD**, it’s so much easier than **Fusion360** (which is more of a pro thing).

    Why FreeCAD ?
    * FreeCAD is much easier to learn and you can freely navigate over your design just by using the mouse.
    * You can export the design files in almost all 3D formats.
    * It’s fully Open Source.

    You can also try using [TinkerCAD](https://www.tinkercad.com/) , which is the easiest way to design basic structures which doesn’t require much of exact measurements.

    You can always reach me if you feel any difficulties using FreeCAD/TinkerCAD.

    All the best for your work..!!

    **Gurbaksh Singh**


    Yes, TinkerCAD is way easier. I’m pretty familiar with that one. I was thinking it might be easier to start with a preexisting switch file (I have the Fusion 360 file for the MMC60). I think the “spring” mechanism for a switch isn’t the easiest thing to design?


    Right, it’s not that easy, but we need to try by making multiple designs with different thickness at spring section, to figure out how much thickness and infill will be needed for the desired pressure to make a press on designed switch.

    Let me know if i could help you anyhow.. :smiley:


    That would be amazing if you have the time to help out. I started a Fusion 360 file that has all components and the flexure and top if that helps? https://drive.google.com/file/d/1hqcZ4XM9_fST9fDWsAnaVt2zqBENfZdj/view?usp=sharing


    Sure, What’s the primary goal for you with the switch re-design, now ? So we can work together being on same page as well… :smiley:


    I think the primary idea would be to create a low cost accessible (most AT users can’t access the camera shutter button) bluetooth switch. Now that I think about it… It might be nice to also have a jack input that goes to another pin. Incase people want to use their current switch and use this as a wireless transmitter?

    What are your thoughts on jumping on a video call super quick? Might be easier?


    Sure, I am available at google hangouts and zoom, you can add me with email “[email protected]

    We can decide the time there …


    One thing to be cognizant of it that the MMC60 is already a fairly tall switch, which limits the number of people that can use it. Probably want to avoid making it even taller with additional components.

    The feature that keeps the button in place and lets it be activated from multiple angle is certainly one of the most complicated parts of a switch. I’d recommend having a look at the design of the [interact switch](https://makersmakingchange.com/project/interact-switch/). The designer, Michael, has added the original CAD files to the GitHub repository. This design has very low activation force and is quite similar to some of the commercial switches.

    a jack input that goes to another pin

    This might be an interesting approach as it would then work with multiple switches.


    That’s a good idea. I’ll take a look at that switch as well. It looks like it might have enough room in there to cram the hardware into! @Gurbaksh_Singh and I got to chat over the weekend and were also looking at just starting from scratch with a rectangular base.


    to tackle the button press issues with different directions ? Why don’t we try to add multiple switches inside a single button to make it much more comfortable to press from many side instead of just pressing at center ?

    Here is my concept:
    * A button having multiple switches connected in parallel performing only single operation…
    ![Same Button|575×500, 75%](upload://8NWHXAlJteVxZHFyhwP6KyO24HP.jpeg)

    * A button having multiple switches placed independently, performing multiple operations…
    ![Multiple button|568×500, 75%](upload://9uUkhhJ9P1YfqqSMbu9buDDkJpD.jpeg)

    As we have lots of varieties of buttons available , we could easily make it happen with additional few cents.

    * another advantage of having multiple buttons connected in parallel is if any one of those buttons fail anyhow, user still can use the device by pressing it in other directions instead of waiting for a repair or a new button request to be approved again.

    I would love to have your feedback, guys.. :smiley:



    Happy Monday!!

    Oh super interested design. I think the idea of adding additional buttons for multiple operations would be a great addition. I finally got around to starting something in Tinkercad. [Here is the link](https://www.tinkercad.com/things/h5zNSY3fLIb-ble-at-button/edit?sharecode=Ejf79yTpEJZpa2LfvO896wBhw423qvmO9XraWlw4auA). The file is pretty much a box with SLT files of all the components to size. I’ll also email this link out now.


    OK… I got around to making V1 of a case for the bluetooth switch. This one uses the raindrop idea and has two buttons/ caps and two input jacks if you want to attach your own switches instead.
    ![BT_Switch_V1|666×500, 50%](upload://hzKIMhW1BzUeFG066l6qkVRT1FN.jpeg)

    It’s kind of tight in there and I’m working on [V2](https://www.tinkercad.com/things/bbRZ6X6CALk) now moving things around a little bit to make space. Connecting everything to a single ground pin is making things messy in there. I’m thinking of perhaps running a copper wire along the perimeter to connect the grounds to and then insulate it somehow. I’m wondering if that’s a terrible idea or if anyone has ideas on how to make it more orderly in there.

    My goal is to make this project without using custom PCB boards for the user (such as myself) who doesn’t regularly interact with custom PCB boards or has a need to order them regularly.


    Ughh!! And this product just landed in my inbox today: https://www.inclusive.co.uk/cosmo-switch.

    130 British pounds for a single bluetooth switch!


    Do you want it to be solder-free as well?

    If not, basing the design around generic proto board might be an option. They are available in a variety of sizes. E.g. [Adafruit Perma-Proto Half-sized Breadboard PCB – 3 Pack! ID: 571 – $12.50 : Adafruit Industries, Unique & fun DIY electronics and kits](https://www.adafruit.com/product/571) Many have a ground rail to reduce the number of solder points.

    Solderless breadboards could be an option too, but keep in mind that the connections aren’t nearly as robust / reliable. The initial Volksswitch prototype was based on this approach ( [Version 1: The Initial Volksswitch Design – Volksswitch.org](https://volksswitch.org/index.php/volks-devices/volksswitch-proof-of-concept/version-1-initial-volksswitch-design/)) Something like hot glue may help a bit, but the connections may eventually loosen and not work consistently.

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