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  • #10015

    @MMC_Jake I whipped up a quick 3d printable pin that works well. See picture. Really nothing fancy. This ones a little long but I find it easier to handle. Just trim off the excess 2-3mm. Could make shorter to save filament. Print a bunch at a time with a brim.
    ![jack pin|352×296](upload://gFYDbx3NVGuNaqIKFfUZXKqcQhk.png)

    #10016

    Thanks @marchache171. We’ll give these a test to see if they are printable on a range of printers and hold up over time to the loading across the layers.

    What sort of printer do you have access to? As I recall, this diameter/height was right on the fringe of printability for vertical printing on the old Flashforge Creator Pro’s we had during initial development.

    If necessary, can adapt these to print flat on the bed.

    #10017

    Hi @MMC_Jake, it’s a stock Ender 3 (other than yellow springs).

    What kind of loading are you concerned with ? It appeared to me that it was just to hold the switch in place and there isn’t really any force across the layer lines but maybe I missed something. STL is attached. Save you redrawing.

    Another option would be to use 2.85mm PLA. You’d have to widen the hole on the jack mount and the assembler would need to do some slight sanding on the end that goes in to the switch (I think they are 2.6mm diameter) but would be a lot faster to produce and include. Just snip off a couple of lengths. No loading issues either.

    Another[jack pin.stl|attachment](upload://8P5VA8W6pgLAFRGpy7XTXCyAufR.stl) (98.1 KB)

    #10018

    Thanks for the STL @marchache1717. Printability is definitely better with a brim and enough copies (6) to ensure adequate cooling time. (Guessing that was your recommendation?)

    3D printable pins would definitely be preferred over 2.85 mm filament, as they would be easier to source for individual builds (i.e. filament would be great for build events, but far trickier for one-off community builds). It’s too bad the switch holes are a bit big for standard filament.

    Loading shouldn’t be too much of an issue: the pins are only loaded in shear during the initial switch press before the load is transferred to the switch jack mount. Fatigue currently comes into play with the flexure far sooner than it would with the pin.

    #10019

    Perfect. The brim was for bed adhesion and the quantity was to reduce waste factor of the brim. Hadn’t considered cooling but would certainly help. The pins were definitely not smooth but I don’t think that matters. I think I ran them at 80 mm/s speed too so if you wanted to make them pretty you could.

    For the community builds I was thinking the 2.85 pieces would be included with the parts bag otherwise for sure it wouldn’t be as convenient as that filament isn’t as common.

    #10020

    What do you think of this approach? Your design duplicated, connected, and trimmed to print flat. [Switch_Pin_3DP_Dual_Flat.stl|attachment](upload://ql2slBKEMzXuuMHgRY3EtAK2eUg.stl) (110.8 KB)

    ![image|673×499, 50%](upload://zH1W9g5VGYYY6SzSTVP0xtNfZJ4.png)

    #10021

    I like it a lot. Having them joined makes it less likely to get lost. Might be able to get away without a brim. Less fiddly for fat fingers like mine. Stronger across stress points.

    #10022

    We’ve added the 3D printed pin to the Thingiverse listing:
    https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4643859/files

    ![RFS_Pins_0_sm|500×500, 50%](upload://4eEm9tuIwsxUsCREV5BkdEds52K.jpeg)

    ![RFS_Pins_1_sm|500×500, 50%](upload://Aep2vw1MJu2U2jP7zkWzrnrAdJF.jpeg)

    ![RFS_Pins_2_sm|500×500, 50%](upload://sqFpjzbuAY4N7f1dYxj1fJUnOFH.jpeg)

    ![RFS_Pins_3_sm|500×500, 50%](upload://pclu8tceamnoPVBzXpMUSxptzPf.jpeg)

Viewing 8 posts - 16 through 23 (of 23 total)
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